PupStartYour New Puppy Checklist, From Day One
Bringing a new puppy home is exciting and a little overwhelming. There are supplies to buy, vet appointments to book, and training decisions to make before your puppy even walks through the door. This new puppy checklist covers everything you need in one place so nothing falls through the cracks.
Print it, bookmark it, or come back to it whenever you need a reminder. We organized it by category so you can tackle it at your own pace.
Essential Supplies
Get these basics before your puppy arrives. You do not need to buy everything at once, but these items help the first few days go smoothly.
- ✓Food and water bowls. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are easy to clean and harder to tip over than plastic.
- ✓Puppy food. Ask your breeder or shelter what your puppy has been eating. Switching food suddenly can cause stomach upset, so plan a gradual transition over 7 to 10 days.
- ✓Collar, harness, and leash. A flat collar with an ID tag and a 6-foot leash are the basics. A harness is more comfortable for walks and prevents pulling on a puppy's neck.
- ✓ID tag with your phone number. Even before microchipping, an ID tag is the fastest way for someone to contact you if your puppy gets loose.
- ✓Crate. Choose a crate sized for your puppy's adult weight. Many crates come with a divider so you can adjust the space as your puppy grows.
- ✓Bed or crate pad. Something washable. Puppies have accidents, so save the expensive bed for later.
- ✓Potty pads or outdoor clean-up bags. Depending on your setup, you will need pads for indoor training or bags for outdoor cleanup.
- ✓Enzymatic cleaner. Regular cleaners do not fully remove the scent of accidents. Enzymatic cleaner breaks down the proteins so your puppy is less likely to go in the same spot again.
- ✓Treats for training. Small, soft treats work best. Your puppy should be able to eat them in one or two seconds so training stays fast-paced.
- ✓Chew toys and teething toys. Puppies chew. A lot. Provide appropriate options like rubber toys, rope toys, and frozen chew rings to save your furniture.
Puppy-Proofing Your Home
Puppies explore with their mouths. Before your puppy arrives, walk through each room at puppy height and remove anything dangerous or tempting.
- ✓Move electrical cords out of reach or cover them with cord protectors.
- ✓Put away shoes, socks, and small objects that could be chewed or swallowed.
- ✓Secure trash cans with lids or put them behind closed doors.
- ✓Check your houseplants. Many common plants like lilies, pothos, and sago palms are toxic to dogs. Move them or replace them.
- ✓Store cleaning products, medications, and chemicals in locked or high cabinets.
- ✓Block off stairs and rooms with baby gates until your puppy learns the layout.
- ✓Check your yard or balcony for gaps in fencing, toxic plants, or standing water.
Schedule the First Vet Visit
Book a vet appointment within the first week of bringing your puppy home. Even if your puppy has had some vaccinations, your vet will need to verify records and set up a schedule.
- ✓Bring all records from the breeder, shelter, or rescue, including vaccination history and deworming dates.
- ✓Ask about a vaccination schedule. Puppies typically need a series of shots between 6 and 16 weeks, including distemper, parvovirus, and rabies.
- ✓Discuss flea, tick, and heartworm prevention. Your vet will recommend a monthly preventive based on your region.
- ✓Ask about microchipping if your puppy has not been chipped yet.
- ✓Discuss spaying or neutering timeline. Your vet will recommend the right age based on breed and size.
- ✓Bring a list of questions. No question is too small. Ask about feeding amounts, growth expectations, and anything that concerns you.
Training Basics to Start Right Away
You do not need to wait for a training class to start working with your puppy. Training begins the moment your puppy comes home. Keep sessions short (3 to 5 minutes) and positive.
Name recognition
Say your puppy's name. When they look at you, mark it with "yes" and give a treat. Repeat 5 to 10 times per session. This builds the foundation for every other cue.
Sit
Hold a treat above your puppy's nose and slowly move it back over their head. As their bottom drops, say "yes" and reward. Most puppies pick this up within a few sessions.
Potty training
Take your puppy outside (or to the pad) after every meal, nap, and play session. Reward immediately when they go in the right spot. Consistency matters more than perfection.
Crate introduction
Let your puppy explore the crate on their own terms. Toss treats inside, feed meals in the crate, and let them leave whenever they want. Never use the crate as punishment.
The Socialization Window
Between roughly 3 and 14 weeks of age, puppies are in a critical socialization period. Experiences during this window shape how your puppy feels about the world for the rest of their life. The goal is not to overwhelm your puppy, but to expose them to new things in a positive, low-pressure way.
What to introduce during socialization
People
Men, women, children, people wearing hats, sunglasses, uniforms. Let your puppy approach at their own pace.
Sounds
Traffic, doorbells, vacuum cleaners, thunder recordings. Start at low volume and pair with treats.
Surfaces
Grass, gravel, tile, metal grates, wet pavement. Walking on different textures builds confidence.
Handling
Touch their paws, ears, mouth, and tail gently. This makes vet visits and grooming much easier later on.
Important: until your puppy is fully vaccinated, avoid dog parks and high-traffic dog areas. You can still socialize safely by carrying your puppy, visiting friends' vaccinated dogs, and doing supervised outdoor exploration in low-risk areas.
Setting Up a Daily Routine
Puppies thrive on routine. A predictable schedule helps with potty training, reduces anxiety, and makes your life easier. Here is a simple framework to start with:
Potty break first thing. Breakfast, then another potty break 15 to 20 minutes after eating. Short training session (3 to 5 minutes). Playtime, then a nap in the crate.
Potty break after the nap. Lunch (puppies under 6 months usually eat three meals a day). Potty break after lunch. Socialization activity or a short walk. Nap.
Potty break. Another training session or enrichment activity (puzzle toy, sniff walk). Playtime with the family. Nap.
Dinner. Potty break after eating. Calm play or chewing time. Final potty break right before bed. Crate time for the night.
Young puppies (8 to 10 weeks) typically need 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day. If your puppy seems cranky or wild, they probably need a nap. Enforced nap time in the crate is one of the best things you can do for an overtired puppy.
Quick Reference: First 30 Days
Week 1
Focus on settling in. Establish a potty routine, introduce the crate, start name recognition, and book the vet appointment.
Week 2
Begin short training sessions for sit and recall. Continue socialization. Get into a daily routine that includes regular naps.
Week 3
Add new cues like "down" and "leave it." Expand socialization to new environments. Potty accidents should be decreasing.
Week 4
You should have a solid routine by now. Work on longer crate durations, practice walking on a leash, and introduce grooming basics like brushing and nail handling.
A Training Plan That Grows With Your Puppy
PupStart builds a daily training plan based on your puppy's age, breed, and progress. Instead of guessing what to work on next, you get structured guidance that adjusts as your puppy learns. Includes step-by-step exercises, a training journal, and an AI coach for questions along the way.